CIMI To The Rescue

Preparation Technology

Textile World Asia Special ReportCIMI To The RescueCIMI’s new Lavanova Multifix range solves
production issues for one Italian yarn and fabric manufacturer.

Minimal tension during processing results in a high degree of crabbing and a final
high-quality handle.E. Pecci & C. S.a.s., an Italian textiles company, recently restructured
its organization and expanded its product range. To handle the new production needs, the company
acquired a continuous, open-width treatment line from CIMI S.p.A., Italy.According to Filippo Busi,
general manager of E. Pecci, the company was restructured in 2002 to include two divisions: Pecci
Filati S.p.A. for yarn manufacturing and Pecci Tessuti for fabric manufacturing. Major changes were
implemented at Pecci Tessuti, which today employs about 135 people, has an annual turnover of 30
million euros, and produces about 2.5 million meters of fabrics, of which 70 percent to 75 percent
is exported. While E. Pecci made only fabrics for men’s suitings in the past, Pecci Tessuti has
started to include in its collections highquality fabrics for women’s wear.For fabrics made of wool
and wool blends, the change in product range meant the use of finer and more delicate raw materials
(about 19 microns). In addition, cotton, viscose, and linen fabrics made with yarns of finer counts
also were added. Moreover, to keep pace with market trends, the latest collections also include
stretch articles (mono and bistretch), as well as easy-care fabrics.To E. Pecci, such changes in
production, especially the addition of cotton and man-made products, were not easy to implement
with the existing equipment because the machines were installed mostly for wool fabric production.
Thus, the decision was made to invest in a Lavanova Multifix continuous, openwidth washing and
fixing range from CIMI.

The “natural steam” trademark tank is a high-efficiency steamer fed with saturated
steam.Ongoing EvolutionAlberto Bozzo, finishing manager of E. Pecci, said the CIMI acquisition
provides several advantages. Compared to mid-level cotton finishing done in the past by various
commissioned finishers, the handle of all articles is improved with the CIMI line.The CIMI
equipment, which processes with a minimum amount of tension and at a perfect fabric setting,
facilitates subsequent operations such as dyeing. Moreover, the equipment is fully automatic,
requiring no special needs for service or skilled personnel. All operations can be controlled with
a touch-screen interface.“As the Lavanova Multifix evolution goes on and flexibility increases, the
range constantly offers the possibility of carrying on the development of new processes and
products,” said Bozzo.

The Lavanova Multifix line was designed for the continuous open-width treatment of wool,
cotton, man-made and blended fabrics.New And Improved FeaturesAccording to Michele Zampieri, a
textiles chemistries specialist at CIMI, the company redesigned some aspects of the Lavanova
Superfix range to increase its versatility and to make it suitable for treating cotton. The result
of the redesign was the new Lavanova Multifix.The features that remained unchanged from the
Lavanova Superfix include the fabric-forward movement that is made possible by applying the minimum
necessary force. This allows the machine to operate with an adjustable tension level while keeping
the material relaxed even in the fully guided lengths. With the proper settings, even elastic
fabrics shrink during the process.Another benefit is the savings in water and energy consumption, a
result of the large number of interchange points between the liquor and the textile substrate being
processed.Zampieri said the new Multifix module was designed to meet several goals: further
reduction in water and chemical consumption, reduction in energy cost, reduction in purification
cost, elimination of manual operations, improvement in treatment quality, and increase in
flexibility. “The results achieved by Multifix satisfy all these points,” he said. “In some cases,
the real data were better than our expectations.”The development of impregnation, “spray up” and
“natural steam” treatment tanks with low volume has shortened the time for recipe change, which
results in increased flexibility. Consumption of auxiliaries, chemicals and water also is
minimized, resulting in lower energy and purification costs.Computer-controlled chemicals feeding
guarantees the preservation of the concentration of the chemicals over time and the repeatability
for different lots. With the special construction of the “spray up” saturator, the surface
penetration and distribution of chemicals onto the fabric are improved, greatly enhancing the
treatment quality, thanks to the higher level of energy provided by the saturated steam supplied to
the “natural steam”treatment chamber.According to Bozzo, the new equipment has allowed E. Pecci to
industrialize a series of processes, from the preparation of classic suiting fabrics, to washing
and crabbing, to more niche treatments, such as those for creating “natural stretch” fabrics.

The Multifix range has a “Spray-Up” saturation tank for the adding of chemicals.Cotton
PreparationFor cotton preparation, the Lavanova Multifix line has provided positive answers to some
difficult questions. The machine can handle any type of size used on the fabrics. It achieves a
good and uniform hydrophilicity of the material being processed. The Lavanova Multifix range also
achieves the right degree of white and of hydrophilicity without changing the cotton polymerization
degree.The cotton fiber cuticle is attacked by enzyme desizing, removing the contact point and
detaching from the cuticle any type of size present and leaving a surface more porous than the
original one. This porosity permits the subsequent pad steam bleaching to penetrate into the fiber
in shorter times (three minutes) and in a more uniform way.The combination of the two recipe
formulations results in excellent hydrophilicity and degree of white; at the same time it ensures a
decrease in the cotton polymerization degree to levels regarded as optimal compared to treatment by
conventional cycles.

Winter 2004